Petaluma Post, February 2006,
by David Yearsley
Friends of the Petaluma River

Many folks are familiar with the term “Redwood Empire”; a designation that usually refers to a large verdantly forested section of Sonoma County encompassing the Russian, Eel, and Coastal river watersheds. Another beautiful part of Sonoma County that is often overlooked in terms of natural splendor and recreational value is one I call “The Wetlands Empire”. It is a tidewater wonderland comprised of the Petaluma River, Tolay Valley, and Sonoma Creek watersheds.

What makes the “Wetlands Empire” special? I think it is abundant access to wildlife on miles of waterside trails and myriad flat water paddling opportunities, all within quick reach of major transportation corridors that create its special appeal. One doesn’t have to drive long distances over back roads to get away from civilization here. Anyone who has traveled up Hwy 101 from Marin, down the Lakeville Hwy. from Petaluma, or across Hwy 37 toward Vallejo has undoubtedly noticed the abundance of beautiful marshlands and waterways nestled among Sonoma County’s familiar oak and grass covered hills. Thanks to timely acquisition and restoration work by many government entities and non-profit groups much of this empire is now in the public domain and readily accessible.

On the region’s Northern edge, the City of Petaluma is continually improving its wonderful “river walk” with the addition of parks and trails along upstream portions of the river and its tributaries. In the Southern section of town a “Trail of Tides” follows the river from the Petaluma Marina, past the Sheraton Hotel , through Alman Marsh to end at Shollenberger Park, where a 2 mile loop encircles large dredging ponds. These ponds have proven to be a magnet for resident and migratory birds as well as other wildlife that regularly provide close-up viewing opportunities. It is small wonder that this has become Petaluma’s most visited walking park. In the future this same trail will extend an additional 3+ miles to wind through the city’s new Water Recycling Facility at Ellis Creek. This planned “wetlands preserve” will include 3 constructed ponds for natural water cleansing, 2 restored tidal marshes, and many “creature features” designed by world renowned environmental artist Patricia Johanson.

Further down the river the mighty Petaluma Marsh beckons paddlers, sportsmen, and other adventurers to explore the largest intact tidal marsh within the S.F. Bay Estuary. Containing miles of serpentine sloughs, many salt ponds, and tidal changes ranging up to 7’ daily, the backwaters of the Petaluma Marsh present an ever changing view of one of nature’s most fecund ecosystems; a cradle of aquatic life in the Bay. Care should be taken to consult tide tables and charts before traveling too deeply into this estuarine wonderland. My favorite guide is the USGS map of the Petaluma Marsh quadrant.

Just to the East of the Petaluma Marsh, over a low range of hills, lies the beautiful 2000 acre Tolay Valley. Most of this self contained watershed was recently purchased by the County’s Regional Parks Dept. and promises to be a future treasure trove of discoveries and opportunities. The County is currently considering plans to restore what was once Sonoma’s largest fresh water lake as well as create hiking trails and educational amenities; all in what was once an ancient regional gathering spot and Native American holy ground. Thousands of stone artifacts have been found in the drained lake bed and the surrounding hills, with many of these are currently being displayed in local and national museums. The park also includes the 800’ high ridges that surround the valley and provide homes to diverse wildlife including Golden Eagles as well as offering panoramic views of 3 prominent Bay Area mountains and San Pablo Bay.

At the Bottom of Sonoma County, stretching between the Petaluma and Napa Rivers are the so called San Pablo Baylands. This is the name given to thousands of acres of wetlands at the top of the SF Bay. Some of these historic marshes and dyked baylands have recently been acquired through the efforts of environmental non-profits and are the pride of wetland advocates. With walking trails leading from the Port Sonoma Marina along the Bay front to the Tolay Creek drainage, and then out through miles of National Wildlife refuge, the San Pablo Baylands offer hikers young and old, and even folks with disabilities easy access to nature. Paddling and walking opportunities also abound in the combined Sonoma-Napa Marshes. Sonoma Creek is one of the doors to this little used and naturally rich water wonderland.

Word is getting out. Southern Sonoma County has special appeal to recreational hikers and water sport aficionados of all levels and abilities. It is a world class birding destination and watercraft adventure land that is located right in our own back yard. The Wetlands Empire is a Sonoma County treasure that won’t remain overlooked much longer.

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